Tag: market harborough

From or To?

Two weeks ago, I travelled back TO Tokyo from England where I had spent a very pleasant six months with family and friends whilst living in my home in Market Harborough, Leicestershire. One of the features of life in England that I have noticed on resuming permanent residence following many years of working and living overseas living is by how much society and local communities rely on volunteers both for services such as the community theatre and cinema, physical activities such as Park Run and the Ramblers, cultural activities such as music groups like choirs bands and choral groups, the Harborough Writers’ Hub of which I’m now a member, and of course the numerous charity shops which now dominate our High Streets.
In order to both contribute to as well as to get to know more about my new home town, last year I volunteered to help out at the Oxfam Bookshop which is well-stocked with second-hand (or ‘pre-loved’ as they’re now known) books, CDs, records and other items donated by members of the public for re-sale with proceeds going to support the work of Oxfam (a global organisation that fights inequality to end poverty and injustice). In fact today, 5 November, happens to be International Volunteer Managers Day when we recognise the work done by our Managers and Deputy Managers in the retail outlets.

Obviously part-time staff such as myself do not receive any recompense for services but, in true English tradition, are entitled to tea and biscuits during our breaks! The shop’s kitchen has accumulated a supply of mugs over the years, and it was by coincidence and very appropriate that I should be allocated the following mug promoting an old penguin book a copy of which I have since tracked down and read although it wasn’t the Penguin edition.

And as one of my Oxfam colleagues commented, it seemed as if it were the book that I was meant to write. However, it wasn’t written by a 21st century retired member of the British Embassy in Tokyo, but by a gentleman appointed in 1938, by the Japanese Embassy in London to work as an adviser to the Japanese Foreign Office in Tokyo as well as doing some English language lecturing in Tokyo Universities. But, one of my final freelance pre-Covid jobs was teaching diplomatic English to the staff of the Japanese Foreign Office, so some cross-over.

Many of John Morris’ first experiences of Japan and its society in 1938 namely bureaucracy; attitudes and resistance towards learning and speaking English; rules and regulations; restaurants and food, were like mine when I first worked in Japan 41 years later in 1979. Given the timing of his stay with Japan’s dramatic entry into the Second World War his departure from Tokyo for England in 1941 was much earlier than he had expected and sadly he never returned. So, I feel a great affinity for John Morris; I am privileged to be able to come back regularly TO Tokyo to continue my own experiences, and to write about them, including the links I’m able to discover between my two homes despite the distance between them.

My last full weekend was no exception with another pleasant evening at the Market Harborough cinema to see Kensuke’s Kingdom an animated film based on a children’s book by Michael Murpogo which tells the story of a boy called Michael, who, whilst on a family sailing trip around the world was swept overboard in a storm and ends up on a small island in the Pacific which is inhabited by Kensuke, an elderly Japanese, himself a survivor of a Japanese battleship sunk during the Pacific War. Despite their age differences and linguistic challenges they become good friends until Michael is eventually rescued and they bid each other a fond, and tearful ‘sayonara’. In English but with Kensuke’s few words of Japanese voiced by well-known actor Ken Watanabe.

The following day, Japan was once again on the programme when I attended, for the first time, a concert given by the Market Harborough Orchestra, another community project, established in 2012 and now under the enthusiastic and talented baton of conductor Stephen Bell. The first piece they played was the Japanese Suite by British composer Gustav Holst who wrote it in 1915 at the request of a Japanese dancer, Michio Ito, who whistled some traditional Japanese tunes to Holst as he wrote the piece – and she must have been as good a whistler as she was a dancer as they are recognisable to those familiar with Japanese tunes.

And so the time had arrived for me to bid a fond, and tearful sayonara to England’s Green and Pleasant Land to come back to the Land of the Rising Sun, marking departure FROM London via Paddington Station, and return TO Tokyo with traditional gastronomic delights which did not include, much to Paddington’s disappointment, any marmalade sandwiches.

Lock Down

Coming up to four years ago, the phrase ‘lockdown’ developed serious undertones of not being able to go outside without wearing a facemask; being restricted as to the number of people with whom one could meet; curtailing travel and certainly having to adopt a lifestyle most of us born in the post-World War years would never have dreamt of. But today fortunately, with some exceptions, that is now behind us and we can once again enjoy what our ancestors have built for us.

We have much to be proud of in the UK – and some to be ashamed of, but I won’t go into that now- but being the first country to develop a nationwide canal network, must be one of our finest achievements. At its most extensive, this stretched to 4,000 miles or 6,000kms from the beginnings in the 16th and 17th centuries when work began to canalise our waterway network to improve local and nationwide transportation systems. Work started in earnest during the industrial revolution. Whereas previously a horse and cart could carry around one or two tons of cargo on the deteriorating roads a horse drawn canal barge could carry up to 25 times that amount and the period from 1770 to 1830 was sometimes known as the Golden Age of canals with barges being used to transport raw materials and finished goods around the country more efficiently.

But, we know what happens – progress! And that gave way to a faster and more sophisticated rail network and heavy- duty road haulage especially in the 20th century. Fortunately, although some of the canals, most of which were built by manual labour alone, fell into disuse and disrepair, the end of the second world war saw a revival. The formation of the Inland Waterways Association by LTC Rolt and Robert Aickman revived interest in their use for leisure purposes and the restoration of some of the canals by a group of volunteers. Before too long, hiring or buying a narrowboat for a holiday in the slow lane became a very popular holiday activity as a way of exploring the countryside or even as a permanent way of life for some whom wished to opt out of the rat race.

And in recent years, it has been seen as some as the perfect form of social distancing where, with the help of technology, it is possible to work ‘remotely’ from home for some people running a business from their boats or as an ideal retreat also for artists and writers seeking creative inspiration away from daily distractions.

But, for those of us who have not yet taken to the waterways in order to write our first book, it is still possible to observe and enjoy all that the canals have to offer from walks along the footpaths along which the horses used to tow the boats (ie towpaths) to the nature of the surrounding countryside.

Another engineering feat was to design a way of moving down or uphill in the waterways which were built to correspond to the elevations of the surrounding environment. Locks were the answer where the boat entered a fixed chamber in which the water levels were raised or lowered through a system of opening and closing underwater ‘paddles’ and allowing the boats to proceed.

I am fortunate that my UK home base in the East Midlands is close to the Grand Union Canal, which stretches 147 miles (235km) from Paddington in West London to Gas Street in Birmingham passing through Northamptonshire and Leicestershire including an ‘arm’ into Market Harborough.

A popular tourist attraction is Foxton Locks with its flight of 10 locks from the ‘Top Lock’ where there’s also a cafe serving light refreshments to the Bridge 61 pub and Foxton locks Inn at the bottom with a wider range of food and drinks. Much needed by the boaters for whom it can take from 45-60 minutes to navigate the whole flight.

It’s only a 10 minute bus ride from Harborough to Foxton, but the winding route of the canal travels through 6 miles (10km) of the Leicestershire countryside making for a very pleasant stroll which I often do starting with a ‘bacon butty’ at the Top Lock and finishing at the Waterfront Restaurant at the Union Wharf in Market Harborough.

The Union Wharf in Market Harborough – nearly home!

While it can usually be a solitary walk there’s sometimes plenty of company along the way.

For the less energetic, standing and watching the hale and hearty navigate their vessels either up or down the flight, or visiting the canal side museum can also be an interesting day out and I try to do so when I have visitors who don’t fancy the walk. A young Japanese student friend who was visiting me recently was offered the chance to follow the locks down and ride the flight with a kindly couple aboard their houseboat the ‘Nightingale’  watched and encouraged by visitors from near and far who are collectively known as Gongoozlers.

As a ‘local’ I try to be more active and help the process opening or closing gates as required. And, as I’ve discovered on my return to the UK, so do an organised band of volunteers giving up their free time to work for the Canal and River Trust (https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/) either in the operation of the locks or in regularly cleaning and maintaining the canals themselves for our continuing pleasure and recreation. But, once again the politicians intervene and the Trust has been subject to recent Government spending cuts, and the debate over funding for the country’s transportation whether that will be for a high-speed rail network, expansion of an airport or better use of low emission vehicles will rage on into the next General Election and could even affect its outcome.

I’ll watch the politics from the sidelines – a true Gongoozler.

Rambling On

Something of which I have often/occasionally been accused. However, after a fallow few months and with only a three months to go before I return to Japan, it really is about time I got going with some more reflections on my new lifestyle.

But rather than ‘talk or write at length in a confused or inconsequential way’, I’ll try to focus on the second definition of the word ‘ramble’ which is to ‘walk for pleasure in the countryside’. But first a reminder that, in the UK, we have not always been able to enjoy the walking that we do today. In times gone by access to the countryside was limited as many private landowners closed off their land; in response, the number of walking clubs and groups that campaigned for walkers’ rights grew from the mid-nineteenth century to the 1930s.

In 1931, the National Council of Ramblers’ Federations was formed because walkers felt that a national body to represent their interests was needed. On 24 April 1932, the communist-inspired British Workers’ Sports Federation, frustrated at the lack of resolve of the newly formed Ramblers, staged a mass trespass of Kinder Scout, the highest point in the English Peak district. During the mass trespass, the protesters present scuffled with the Duke of Devonshire’s gamekeepers and five ramblers were arrested.  Nowadays, the Ramblers Association, rather than being a left-wing protest group, is the only charity dedicated to removing barriers to walking and to preserving and improving the paths, tracks and trails we all love.

So, I was delighted, on returning to live in England, to discover the existence of the Market Harborough Ramblers, a group of active souls who organize and participate in twice-weekly walks through the local countryside. What better way of getting to know my new locality and getting to know some of the locals. Signed up and kitted up, I turned up at a car park in the centre of the town for the car share to my first Sunday walk.

THE WALKS

A very welcoming group indeed, prepared to let in a newcomer with his numerous stories about life in Japan! A drive out to a lay-by close to New Inn (a village, not a pub!) from where we started the walk through a field of sheep many with young lambs in attendance. From there, through the wonderfully named villages of Goadby and Tugby reminding me of the charm of the English countryside, stopping in the latter for a quick snack. For most this was a home-made sandwich, some fruit and/or a snack-bar. Missing the convenience of a Japanese bento or even just an onigiri rice ball I had to make do with a light-bite and plenty of water of course.

Despite the secluded nature of our location, we were never completely on our own often attracting the attention and curiosity of the resident livestock.

OK guys, see you later, we’re nearly done for this walk.

My second walk was steeped in history – not the walk itself but the start point being the village of Hallaton which was mentioned in the  Domesday book of 1086 (and a recorded population of ’at least 26 male villagers’)  although it is thought that the village may have been in existence up to 1,000 years prior to that. Developing over the years and centuries,  it now has more than 60 Grade 2 listed historic properties, a population of over 600 people, and is popular with horseriders, cyclists and, of course, walkers.

Although not seeking sanctuary, we enjoyed the shelter of Cranoe church for our lunch break. And, of course, some bovine company along the way.

For my third walk with this group, a slight change of timing and starting arrangements. The Ramblers, as well as organising Sunday walks of around 7-8 miles, (11-13km), also go out on shorter 4-5 mile (6 ½ -8km) mid-week walks. Yes, after years of living in Japan, I’m having to re-adjust back to Imperial measurements once touted by our former Prime Minister, Boris Johnston, as a possible permanent situation if he had remained in power. Thankfully neither has happened!

Back to our Wednesday afternoon ramble, the destination of which held fascination for me as we were going on a quest to find the ‘Judith Stone’, located in a field on the outskirts of Market Harborough. It was also mentioned in the Domesday book of 1086 which was the first and most important record of England by King William I, the French conqueror of our country, after the Battle of Hastings in 1066 in which he defeated our King Harold. He was also known as the William the Bastard king because of his doubtful family lineage, rather than the fact that he had invaded  and was dividing up our country, although that may also have been true. It is thought that the stone took its name from the Countess Judith, niece of William. She is recorded in the Domesday Book as holding land in the area, so perhaps the stone marked a boundary of some kind. It is an igneous rock and described as being an ‘erratic glacial boulder’. But certainly, rather random and remarkable by the fact that it is unmarked and sits in the middle of a field and one has to know about it and how to find it, otherwise it would remain unnoticed.

Enough rambling, in both senses of the word, for the moment, as this was first of many discoveries I’ve made and am continuing to make as I explore and become more knowledgeable about my current location and UK-base in Leicestershire for half of the year as I enjoy the best of England and Japan.

Never Too Far

Market Harborough

One month ago on 2 March 2.3.23 (I love these numbers!), I embarked on the next stage of my Albihon (best of England and Japan) life to divide my time more equally between the country of my birth and my host country for the last 15 years.

My previous work as a freelance coach in Tokyo saw a long pause during the Covid crisis, and during that pause I also reached the formal retirement age in Japan which diminished the prospect of securing new employment.  Also, as an Englishman in Japan, I am often asked about and expected to be an expert on my  home country, but not having lived there continuously for more than 12 years I felt I was losing touch. Having been confidently saying that “it doesn’t rain every day, nor do we eat fish and chips every day”, I was starting to wonder whether that was in fact true. So after discussions with family and friends in both countries, I decided to return to the UK for six months to re-establish residence.

Logistics in place, with arrangements made to ship boxloads of books back, those that my wife had been nagging me to ‘abandon’, and enough clothes for four seasons – in one day – see what I mean?, I left Tokyo for the 14.5 hour flight over the Arctic circle and 2.5 hour drive from London to my home in Market Harborough, Leicestershire in the English East Midlands.

 Not to be confused with Akihabara (Tokyo’s famous ‘Electric Town’), despite similar pronunciation, ‘Harborough’  is a small (population 25,000), historic market town on the border with Northamptonshire, the county of my birth. So this was also a return to my roots where I would be a lot closer to my blood family.

However, it’s also important to remain in close touch with my Japanese connections and this soon happened. My wife and I are keen cinema goers and a couple of weeks before my departure we went to see Avatar, The Way of Water, in the splendid Toho cinema in the Kabukicho entertainment district of Shinjuku. A multi-screen hi-tech building adorned on its roof by a model (at least I think it is!) of Godzilla, going to watch a 3-hour plus movie is a complete afternoon out. A sell-out showing to a mainly Japanese,  fully-masked, silent but appreciative audience left me in no doubt as to my location. Since I was last in the UK, Market Harborough Cinema located in the Market Harborough theatre, has  undergone a revamp with the latest Laser Projection technology which allows it to show films that are on general release across the country. Nevertheless this not for profit, independent community cinema with a pull-down screen over the small theatre stage in front of the 117 seat capacity  audience, most of whom knew and were chatting to each other as they arrived, is a complete contrast to the 13 screen, 2800 capacity, 3D IMAX Dolby Toho cinema in Shinjuku.

Giant Godzilla Statue Atop Toho Cinema in the Shinjuku Kabukicho District of Tokyo, Japan

My first film was ‘Living’, starring award-nominated Bill Nighy, which I soon learned was based on ’Ikiru’ by Japanese film director Kurosawa, with Kazuo Ishiguro (https://jeremyjlhill.com/2023/02/09/noble-efforts/) enjoying writing credits as well. So, despite the approximate 10,000 km physical between the two cinemas I was re-assured that I would never be too far from the other half of my new 50-50 lifestyle.

I had this re-confirmed the following day wandering around the stalls in Market Harborough’s old market square.

Certainly not for the purists, but it did bring me just that bit closer to my other home